Woodfinishers Weblog

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Pinnacle’s catalyzed polyurethane

Jody Toole, Master and owner of Jody Toole Finishing has sent me a write up of finishing a wooden garage door in Malibu, he needed and exterior grade urethane that would stand up against the weather, Sun and salt sea air that constantly pounds the wood in that area. While I have Water base urethane that are very good he didn’t need a water based material as it was out sided where the smells would not be and issue, further he need something that would dry fast and hard so as not to collect dust in the process of drying.

The product I recommended was the Pinnacle polyurethane for wood #149CL12 It is manufactured here in the LA area and is compliant with the South Coast Air Quality management districts rule 1136. It has and excellent clarity and has UV inhibitors in that will lessen the Suns ultraviolet damage. nothing will last forever under the abuse of the weather but this is a coating that has constantly and continually proven itself as and exterior urethane coating.  This is a two component product meaning that you have to add the Part “B” in to the Part “A” . It is a 4:1 mix. you have 4 quarts of the part A to 1 quart of the part B, this is the catalyst an gives the material a “pot Life” , meaning that you have only a certain amount of time before it begins to turn hard on you. This is a professional product and should be used by people who have some idea of what they are doing.  As you might imagine I sell this product and you can see more information about that at on my store at  www.annexpaint.com

Ok here are the doors:

 

 

 

Here are Jodies Tips on using the polyurethane:

Tips for spraying Pinnacle’s catalyzed polyurethane:

#1- Follow the directions explicitly!

#2- Do not add more than the recommended
        amount of catalyst. The first time I sprayed
        this product that is exactly what I did.
        Coming from the school of “more is always
        better” I doubled the amount of catalyst thinking
        that it would speed up the drying time. And it
        certainly did. In almost no time at all the material
        turned solid and it cost about $300 to clean my
        spray machine, replace the line, tip and etc.

#3- Careful with the thinner. 10% to 15% reducer is
         what I recommend. I went with 25% the first time
         and it was “run city”.

#4- Spray sequence:

                    1- a thinned down sealer coat
                           ( 25% or more but do not
                              spray heavily 2 light coats
                              in quick succession will do
                              the trick)

                      2- sand

                      3- spray a light coat and wait for
                           it to flash off (a very short wait)
                          and then spray your “normal”
                          coat. If you want another coat
                          spray it when the second one
                          flashes off.

#5- I sprayed this with an airless using a
      worn out double-orifice fine finishing
      tip. By worn out I mean I’ve been using
      it every day for a year, at least, probably
      longer. It worked fine, just keep in mind
      that you are spraying an oil based product
      and, as such, it is more susceptible to
      runs and sags.
This job was a stain and glaze of a garage door
and 2 entry doors. To see a slide show of the work
click on the link at the bottom of this post.

Here  are the additional doors Jody finished :

  

Here is a very clear shot of the product used:

 You can see other work by Jody on his blog at:

         http://jodytoole.wordpress.com/

I have seen consistent very good work from Jody and would recommend him as a finisher.

IF you have  questions about this product or how to apply it fee free to contact me and I’ll be glad to help you out

Greg Saunders
Annex Paint

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December 22, 2010 - Posted by | polyurethane

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