Woodfinishers Weblog

Wood finishing forum for professional finishers

CIC water based conversion coating Showcase By: Eric Reason

Eric is a furniture maker in Nashville Tennessee He contacted me some years ago after seeing my Blog with and interest in trying out the  cic conversion coatings products I had talked about so much. Determined to get good with  water based products he invested the time and patience in to the product and has become a master craftsman with them. Producing a singularly beautiful artistic creation in wood, is not a mater of divine inspiration but instead the result of a lot of hard work study and practice.  Recently he send me some pictures of some custom walnut cases he built and finished with the CIC coating  and I was blown away at the beauty of his creations. I told him I would show off the work and give him a plug.

In his own words, “Since these chests and TV stand were made from un-steamed walnut, I wanted to capture the natural beauty of the wood. Knowing I was going to use the CIC water base conversion top coat, I elected to spray and wipe back a coat of oil which I have found ambers more over time than other finishes. I then finished it up with 3 coats of the CIC water based conversion coating in a satin finish.”

Eric can be contacted for custom furniture work at the following address.

Eric Reason
5013 Meta Dr
Nashville TN 37211
615-498-4895
ericswoodshop@gmail.com

February 7, 2017 Posted by | CIC Centurion, water based Conversion Varnish, Uncategorized, Water based Lacquers, Wood finishing | Leave a comment

How to buff and polish wood coating effectively

Tom Horvath, Creator and CEO of  Clear Coat solutions Inc. CSI, and Annex Paint and have teamed up to put together a little instructional video on how to buff and polish fine wood furniture with the CSI system.

Normally, we have use other automotive compounds and procedures and while they work well they take quite a bit longer and are more prone to problems.

The CSI system is a Completely new formulation, it is a nano-technology water based product that eliminates the need for  the normal three different compounds that are generally associated with the activity.

The CSI  Cream X product which you can buy on my web site at http://www.annexpaint.com is not greasy and doesn’t dry out like the normal products do.

There are a few things that are very important which are gone over in the video, the DA sander had a very tight orbital pattern, 3/32nd to be exact, that used with the interface pad, gives you and even  scratch pattern with out digging into your coating, The sand papers we have used her have proven to last the longest. As Tom mentions in the video it is all about “Conversion” you are converting the current surface with the 2000 grit paper to a 2000 grit scratch pattern, then the next sanding  level up converts the 3000 grit sand scratch pattern to the 3000. with the sander and these sand papers you can make a 1000 grit jump and that saves you a lot of time, to go from 2000 to 2200 to 2500 to 2800 to 3000 takes time and give you more chance to burn through your clear coat.  The Cream-X product applied with a wool pad converts the scratch pattern even further.  Enjoy the video, and if you have questions you are welcome to contact me. If you are with in 80 miles of Reseda California we may be able to arrange a demonstration at your shop.

October 26, 2015 Posted by | Uncategorized | 2 Comments

Pinnacle Polyester high gloss full fill finish Demonstration

Thomas Craven, has been a master at getting the high gloss full fill polyester finish and so I asked him to help me do a how to video on the subject. The video pretty much says it all. if you are interested in doing this your self you can contact me at http://www.annexpaint.com for help in getting the materials to do this with.

If you are interested in having a this finish done professionally contact Thomas Craven via his web site at http://www.tcwoodfinishers.com/ If you do contact Thomas let him know you saw the video.

October 23, 2014 Posted by | speciality finishes, Tips and Tricks, Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Painting speaker cabinets Flat Black with pinnacle polyprimer and CIC conversion varnish

Thomas Craven of Thomas Craven studios, ( http://www.tcwoodfinishers.com/index.html) has done a phenomenal short video series on refinishing a pair of Vandersteen speakers.

He has 6 short videos in all which are very concise and to the point, clearly covering the points of proper prep and application for doing a professional paint Job.

After proper preparation they applied 4 coats of pinnacle polyprimer from Ellis paint. applied in two applications, sanding in-between coats. This gave him and exceptionally hard finish that was very smooth,

Probably one of the most common mistakes of beginning finishers and professionals alike is applying too much paint too quickly, for the sake of speed they whammer on two heavy coats and walk away only to have it bubble or crack on them later. When the first coat doesn’t have a chance to dry properly and then is covered over by successive coats the later layers will dry quicker and harden, then when the earliest layer finally dries a week or two later it will shrink, the later coats already dry and unable to contract will be pulled together and will crack.

The best practice is sneak up on a high build by successive light to medium coats

The videos are all linked together, there are two introductory videos which go over the project and the prep following that you have two more short videos of the spray applications

After that they applied the polyprimer they applied a flat Clear Conversion Varnish. Conversion varnish is a catalyzed coating which is very hard and durable. CIC coatings is the brand of Conversion varnish being used, I’m very fond of this this particular product as it has been specially formulated to be applied right out of the can with out thinning or retarding, it lays out incredibly smooth and dries quickly.

These products can be obtained through my store Annex Paint in Reseda California If you have any questions about these products feel free to contact me.

Greg Saunders 818-439-9297

If you are interested in having a specialty coating on your furniture contact Thomas Craven at the above web site.

June 14, 2014 Posted by | Conversion varnish, Tips and Tricks, Uncategorized, Wood finishing | , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Graffiti removal with Monopole’s Citrus Clean Super

Graffiti has become a major scourge ruining art work and defacing property, to combat this, the field of anti-graffiti coatings has come into it’s own.

The best products I have found in this arena are the Monopole products, and the best of their line up is the Permashield Premium. Which is a product that I carry and support.

That being said, there is a special cleaner that is used with this product that will make the job of graffiti removal easy and simple. We have put together a short video of the steps to using the Citrus Clean Super #9800.

The video pretty much spells it all out, If you have questions on the product you are welcome to call me If you would like to order the product you can do so from my web site at http://www.annexpaint.com. IF you would like a copy of the technical data sheet you are welcome to email me and I’ll send you a copy.

best,
Greg Saunders
Annex Paint

March 27, 2014 Posted by | Anti Graffiti coatings, Uncategorized | , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The importance of clean air for your wood finishing

Just when you think you know it all, you learn something new. Truthfully, once you get over the notion that you know it all the learning really begins.

Experience is a great thing and is something  you gain after putting in your time, But true wisdom is always keeping and eye out for what more there is to know about something and how might things be done better.  With that bit of wisdom I’ll tell you about having clean air in your wood finishing shop, something that I have recently gotten a greater appreciation of.

Clean Air does several things for your finishing, all of them good,  dirty air is a combination of three things.

1. Oil,
2. Dirt,
3. Water or moisture.

Oil can come from your compressor or from oils in the air  the compressor suck in, Likewise, Dirt comes in to the compressor or can be from the compressor, little metal flake from the inside of the tank or little rubber from the hoses that need to be replaced. all of these things can land in your finish and screw it up making you have to wait for it to dry sand it down and then reshoot it. Added time and lost money.  Lastly water and moisture, comes from the condensation of the air when it is compressed and
un-compressed and is something that you will always have a degree of, more in the colder humid months.

In the automotive industry and when spraying urethanes and high-end finishes this is vital as the tiniest amount of moisture will ruin a finish. In the wood finishing industry the importance of clean air is often not stressed enough.  but that being said when you start getting over 15% humidity in your air you clear coats won’t dry as quickly and wont be as hard or as clear. If you look at a clear coat that is cloudy under a microscope you’ll thousands of tinny bubbles  that are quite often  water drops that were trapped inside the finish,  With water based products you can get away with more humidity but despite that all of your coatings water base or otherwise will dry faster and harder when you have decreased the humidity below 15% for the high end automotives you want to be blow 5%

There is another benefit to having dry air and that is your air tools will last longer.

We installed the RTI PERF 50 system in Thomas Craven’s wood finishing studio and here is a video of him telling you what the system does and how much it has improved his finishing.

The Perf 50 system is great unit designed to handle the air flow of a two booth shop.  there is a smaller unit for a single booth application and you can go with less expensive systems than these. minimally you want to have a three stage system that removes oil, water moisture and dirt. the oil and dirt filters are sometimes combined.

I ‘m now certified by RTI to do air quality testing and have the tools to come out to a shop and test the air to see how much moisture and dirt are coming out of your hoses.

If you have any questions about the matter please feel free to send me an email or leave a comment. In the coming months I start having RTI parts and equipment on the annexpaint.com web site for sale.

Best,

Greg Saunders
Annexpaint

February 6, 2014 Posted by | Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Part II : an Intro to water based floor coatings Permashield 2000

This is a video of the application of Permashield 2000 by Monopole Inc. IT is a fast dry polyuria clear coat. The video says most every thing to say, this is a phenomenally tough coating that can be applied and then walked on in a matter if hours. This product dries in about 10 to 15 minutes so you really have to move quickly. Best application is to have a few people,  one mixing with one or two people applying the coating. This product had been used on baseball stadium concourses as well  as on heliport decks, it is very tough.

The reason that I was using it was that it is also fairly thick and so coated over the flecks that I had broad cast into the previous coating. If I were to add another coat of the permashield 2000 we would have a very slick surface

Contact me you are interested in knowing more about this or other Monopole Products.Greg Saunders

Greg Saunders
Annex Paint

January 7, 2014 Posted by | Uncategorized | , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Breaking tradition: an Intro to water based epoxy floor coatings

While this is a wood finishing blog I recently had to do a remodeling job for a new office and had a concrete floor to cover and make look good. Having been a supplier for the monopole line of water based concrete coatings  I decided to use my own products and make a training video out of the event.

The Product I’m using is a 2 component water based epoxy that will stick to anything and as well is inexpensive and USDA approved for food service areas. While I had shot blasted the floor to really clean it that was some what unnecessary with this product as it will adhere to any clean surface including porcelain tile.  That is good, really good if you need to put a coating down on a floor that you can’t shot  blast.

The down side to this product is that it has a 20-30 minute pot life, that means that you have that amount of time before it starts hardening up on you in the can, yup, that’s right 20-30 minutes. Mix this up and go to lunch and when you return you’ll have a door stop in your bucket. factually it won’t solidify that quickly but you will have wasted that material as it will be beyond use.

While the video, videography, production of this is about as good as terrible I’m posting it any way as there is a lot of instructional data that you should have if you are going to use this product.   My goal being to give you and my customers a fighting chance at getting it right the first time.

So once again please excuse the videography there are spots where the camera person zoomed in and left it out of focus. If you can over look these things I hope that you find the posting useful.

Further note on this product: epoxies are great primers and are very hard and this one is one of the best, that being said, epoxies will “chalk” up in the sun light so you don’t what to have and epoxy in the direct Sun light, if you need to use and epoxy primer to get your top coat to stick then top coat the epoxy with another product, in the industry urethanes are generally used over the epoxies heavy equipment painting, tractors  oil rigs, farm equipment and things of that nature are generally primed with and epoxy and then top coated with a polyurethane. the polyurethane is UV stable and will not fade in the sun light and the epoxy is the hard tough protective coating. The “Chalking” doesn’t effect the integrity of the coating just the look. So this application is in side a garage and will have little to no sunlight.

The real trick with this product is getting it mixed and applied quickly. For my application we also applied a color sprinkle to give the floor a little depth and quality. so for this we would coat a section of the floor and then sprinkle in the colored flakes and then move on to do another section.

In the next video we applied the top coat of permashield 2000 and that is another fast dry product that cures very fast.

You are welcome to contact me with questions on this product and others.

In the next video we’ll do the top coat.

Best,

Greg Saunders
Annex Paint

January 7, 2014 Posted by | Uncategorized | , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

CIC lacquer seminar Jan 11th in Baldwin Park California

A demonstration and seminar of new CIC coating products

A demonstration and seminar of new CIC coating products

December 6, 2012 Posted by | Uncategorized | Leave a comment

Water based grain Filler from CIC demo

For years I have been asking for a clear grain filler and for the years I have been looking the only true Clear grain filler I found was an Ultra Violet cured product, while a great product it was out of realm of the regular cabinet guy. Then CIC came up with this product that is all the things I was looking for. It is water based and dries quickly, ( all water based products are temperature and humidity sensitive) This is a product that I have wanted to get a demo video up on for some time.
My wife wanted a simple black box that she was going to put in a closet, it wasn’t going to be seen that much and so didn’t have to be fancy, I had some salvaged oak ply in the shed and so decided to make it out of that. then I had the idea to use the water based grain filler on it to spruce it up and have something for the blog, Long story short I spent way more time doing the finishing on something that is going into the Closet than I should have. that being said I home video is of some value to any one interested in the product.

About the Product:
It is water based and comes in a can it is thick and has the consistency of seriously thick ketchup or bril-cream hair gel (that dates me). You apply it with a spreader or wide putty knife. you don’t want a build you want to spread it around and fill grain any extra you have on the surface, you’ll have to sand off and it gets hard. Lay it on, let it dry and sand all the excess off. This is not a top coat it is not a coating it is a filler so you have to sand down to the wood, depending on the dept of the grain yo may have to do the process again and sand again. once you have filled the grain you can apply your sealer and top coat. SO far I have only used this with water based top coats I have not tried it under a solvent lacquer. should work fine I just haven’t tried that one. the one thing that I would say about that would be that you would want to be very dry first other wise any water/moisture off gassing is going to blush your clear coat.

The other question is at what point do you stain, That the tricky part IF you stain first and you are then sanding down to the wood you are inevitably going to be sanding into your stain. IF you sand afterword you stain in not going to penetrate well. The Trick is when you have filled the grain then sand down deep enough so that you are sanding wood. In other words, if the wood was the land and mountains and the valleys and gorges were the depth of the grain then you would want to sand down to the point that you were cutting the tops of the mountains off. And then apply your stain. If you haven’t sanded that down evenly then your stain coating is going to be uneven.

following this I’ll have a few other video demos of spraying the Black CIC water based Conversion coating on where you see the difference that the grain fill makes.

Ok and here is the video of the application:

August 4, 2012 Posted by | CIC Centurion, water based Conversion Varnish, Conversion varnish, Tips and Tricks, Uncategorized, Water based Lacquers, Wood finishing | , , , , , , , | 1 Comment